I always said, in the beginning, that in fashion the figure of bloggers, instagramers, influencers seemed revolutionary ... For the first time in history, fashion was not dictated by catwalks, magazines or celebrities paid to impose a style on ordinary women.

Unfortunately, this has not been long. Maybe it is the money that (almost) everything corrupts, but what I thought was going to give a new life to fashion, immediately prostituted and Currently it is nothing more than a circus of manipulation and falsehood that any intelligent woman begins to repudiate - read the forum, which I recommended in my IG Stories not long ago, and you will see all kinds of tricks, hoaxes and lack of influencers' values, which has led the forum's readers and writers to define them as humorous influmierders ...

Focusing the discussion on what matters most to me as a fashion designer, I wanted to make a reflection that goes beyond the influencers' figure, without wanting to limit myself to criticize them but to analyze this whole background. In my opinion there is something serious about all this and it is not necessarily obvious.

Any Egyptologist can tell you how women always had full rights in Ancient Egypt, until the Roman Empire of Octavio Augusto arrived and limited women's rights at the level of emancipation, adultery and even at the level of styling - back in the 1st century - with the sole intention that these be limited to their reproductive role, with the aim of continuing to have troops for the Empire's armies.

It was not until the early twentieth century that the suffragists fought and died so that any woman had such fundamental and equal rights - How to vote.

Already in the crazy years 20 (more or less the time of our grandmothers or great-grandmothers), “subversive” social movements allowed new gender roles for women, that they could finally have behaviors that until then were banned from them, but that were always allowed to men - such as owning themselves, being able to work and collect a salary, being able to smoke, going to Jazz clubs, etc ... It was then that designers , like Coco Chanel, they changed the feminine styles to allow them new gender roles.

At the end of the 60 and during the 70, the sexual revolution and the liberation of women arrived. Sorry, I meant the "equalization" of women. The women could finally decide if they wanted to marry or not, if they wanted to have any other sexual orientation, they could choose to have children or not, decide unilaterally if they wanted to divorce, etc ...

All these magnanimous advances for which we have had to wait 20 centuries (!) To aspire to have rights minimally similar to those of the opposite sex ... Until we once again throw away all this evolution, in exchange for only and exclusively obtaining fame and money, or simply obtaining “likes”…

For starters, it seems that any value has been extinguished among this kind of influencer empty of content. The only thing I see that is being promoted is to be a consumer, to be perfect at all times, to travel to take beautiful photos and be “the wife of” as the only goal in life, values ​​that are clearly involution, After all that our grandmothers have been able to conquer. Is that what we women have to limit to aspire again?

Why don't these new influencers speak about art, culture, climate change, their professional life, or even fashion as social science? Beyond that "you have to buy something because it is super cute," get treatments with a craving for beauty that no generation had before, or a wedding full of clichés, as if that were the (only) great moment of a woman's life .

Eye, don't get me wrong Nothing I say is at odds with fashion, with the desire to have a certain aesthetic, with the desire to ascend in life, a desire that any human being has it in an almost innate way.

I am a fashion designer, I know more than anyone the power of the image of each one of us in perception. And I know that the image - like it or not - is one of the first steps that any person has to climb the scale of power or ascension, not only socially but even on a personal level, with feeling good about oneself. But this cannot be the only objective, nor the sole purpose of any woman.

Along with our image, our talent, our intelligence and our values ​​as people are equally or even more important - but, unfortunately, it seems to be unimportant for the influential influencers. It is only interesting to "buy a lot", get cosmetic touch-ups and be "perfect" always - have the maximum of "followers" and "likes", a contemporary way of acquiring fame and power, as if that made us better women. What a way to freak out 20 centuries of feminist struggle!

What may not be obvious, but surely true, is that the problem is not necessarily in the influencers. Yes, there is a lot of silly, futile and ignorant influencer, but there are also surely intelligent, empowered and exemplary ones. But unfortunately, perhaps the intelligence of these women does not matter to anyone.

I observe masses of people who idolize these characters, even if they have done little or nothing to be idolized, Beyond being cute girls who publish photos every day.

They idolize anything and appreciate nothing! Is this how society is defined?

I suspect that we are in front of, once again, a macho perspective of seeing women.

Probably an influencer is nobody but a victim of his own fame and beauty. Victim of a side of people who use the networks as a form of voyeurism and who harasses a girl who unconsciously opens her life for others to stalk her, without any interest for what one is as a person and only and exclusively interested in his physique and the erotic of his power or his fame.

Undeniably, This is a way of seeing women as an object and, in my opinion, a way of continuing to assign ourselves exclusively a reproductive role, as we have been attributed for centuries 20.

Recently I was able to see an exhibition of artistic photos in which the work of a photographer caught my attention - Elisa González Miralles. In his artistic project called Wannabe, Miralles decided to photograph the famous baby dolls Japanese dolls that easily get confused with real women - an obviously disconcerting idea, in the sense that many times we don't know if we see a doll or a real woman.

The reflection of that work led to an equally disconcerting idea, which is the fact that many women also want to look like dolls, Clearly a path that many women find to achieve money, power and even social ascent, in a society that often does not urge them for their intelligence or professional achievements.

So my reflection goes one step further: Isn't it society that really prefers to see women as dolls? Aren't these girls simply adopting the role they expect from them?

Lorena Panea

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